Tag Archives: Black Forest

Black Forest wander day 1 (for the observant among you, there was no day Zero).

Woken at 5:15 by birds singing. We had an early start in clearing mist after a skilfully prepared big breakfast.

Despite at least four different navigation aids after one kilometre we had taken the wrong path which meant we made contact with/took evasive action to avoid a German patrol of tree fellers (although there was actually only one) up into the bracken while the mechanical log thrower passed below us and we were able to continue on our mission …… to the lake.

Sankenbachsee was beautiful in the sunshine. Then a stiff climb to the spectacular Sankenbach Wasserfall and up further to crest the ridge between the two valleys. By 10:30 the rain had arrived, mostly drizzle, occasionally in torrents. Rose, muttering, “there is no bad weather just bad clothing” but looking like a soggy lettuce with less shelf life than Liz Truss, looked in envy as I dressed for dinner in my Goretex evening wear, looking quite the Pierce Brosnan, albeit with twice the body fat percentage.

In the middle of the woods we found a scene from the Brothers Grimm as a witch tried to entice John Rose into her gingerbread house, closely followed by a wooden menagerie of forest folk, including a Hare, which was was naked on account of a local shortage of Haredressers.

A treacherous descent followed down a slippery steep slope, made even more troublesome by the fact it had turned into a babbling mountain stream. Feeling relieved as we reached the bottom we sheltered in the Elbachseehutte to consume Pierce Brosnan’s body weight in ham and cheese sandwiches, boiled eggs and doughnuts.

A final meander alongside the river Ellbach through alpine meadows brought us to the village of Mitteltal where for the first time ever on one of our wanders we experienced the rejuvenating effects of a steam room, jacuzzi and swimming pool. Happily the family Singh who run our hotel prepared a delicious curry for tea 🤔😋

And here is the route

Black Forest Wander Day Minus 1

Why take one train when three will do!

Beautiful final leg from Rastatt to Baiersbronn down the Murg valley after a morning wandering round Strasbourg.

Entered Germany at Kehl after crossing the Rhine. Had a refreshing beverage at the Rose Hotel (yes, really!) and then stocked up with vitals for tomorrow.

Walked up for dinner at Flößer-Schänke Baiersbronn, pub with better food than its name might suggest before heading to our accommodation for the night, a self contained apartment in ‘Haus Schneider’.

One finger, one thumb, one arm, one leg, one nod of the head, keep moving

All of the wanders outlined in these blogs have presented multiple challenges. One might imagine that route finding in the Black Forest would be somewhat more simple than wandering around the poorly mapped hinterlands of Nepal or Rwanda. To be confirmed or not once we get there. We actually have a map this time. A real one. With impossible to replicate folds. The full package.

Happily, we also seem to have overcome the vagaries of booking dot…really, albeit Rose did initially book one accommodation venue for the right day but the wrong year. There is though, a further trial ahead. Mix five years aging with lockdown inactivity and a soupcon of decrepitude and the finely honed bodies of our last wander are but a distant memory. Yes, we are not the men we used to be.

Wandering man and Rose have taken different paths to feebleness, one more prosaic, the other quite exotic. In the case of Wandering Man, the relentless but somewhat predictable advance of arthritis has led to periods of enforced inactivity interspersed with the insertion of spectacular bits of metal into the spine. Quietly confident, after the resulting disappearance of neurological claudication, i.e. the ability to feel his feet again, there remains only the wobbly knee syndrome and muscular atrophy to conquer. Plus of course the maintenance of heart health which observant readers will be well aware prompted these wanders in the first place.

Rose, however, does it differently. In a colourful list of ailments to have assailed him since our last wander, he lists an eyelid tic (the insect variety, not the behavioural disorder), a bout of Dengue Fever and a broken Achilles tendon. All of these infirmities have been a consequence of toxic encounters with other members of the animal kingdom. Even the Achilles issue came about as Rose sought to release an elongated, limbless, carnivorous reptile of the suborder Serpentes – a snake to you and me – that had become tangled in some netting covering a well in Rose’s garden. 

Apparently there are wolves in the Black Forest, so on current form Rose will probably experience some other anatomical malfunction consequent upon a close encounter of the Canis lupus lupus form.

Predictably, we have taken different approaches to regaining lost youthful vigour. Wandering man has joined two gyms and now undertakes grim exercises with intimidating names such as ‘front squat with dumbbell’, ‘deadlift’, ‘press on flat bench’ and the hideous ‘alternating sled push/pull’. Rose, on the other hand goes for walks on the beach. And it’s a lovely beach, with sand and waves and no gym music. Absolutely no gym music. Whilst Rose listens to the gentle crash of waves and observes the ocean, Wandering man endures thumping bass and watches the TV to learn all about food he is not allowed to eat from the cooking programmes taunting him above the gym machines.

Because dieting is, of course, the other ‘regime’. Enforced inactivity and French cuisine have taken their toll. Years of natural selection have allowed the average French person to tolerate morning pastries, extensive two-hour lunches, rich sauces, and fine wines. No such luck for the average Anglo Saxon like Wandering man, who balloons at the mere mention of the word Cassoulet. As for Rose, he is in a better position in finding hot climates incompatible with eating food. It also helps that he spends hours round the garden, pursuing his chickens who give him the right run around. Whereas most people take the dogs out, it’s the chickens that take Rose for walks.

So here we are, trying to lose weight and put on muscle mass in a vain attempt to rediscover the elixir of our lost youths. How our newly rejuvenated mid-sixties bodies will cope with the first incline, we wait to see. The wander we have planned is called ‘Lakes and Mountains’. Lakes sounds OK, it’s the mountains bit that sends shivers down our spines. What’s left of them anyway.