After bothering me all night, John Rose and I decided to take Herr Covid for a hike. He complained of course, dragging us back from time to time, slouching in teenage irritation at the audacity of it all. But we fed him electrolytes and gave him an occasional kicking so he mainly gave up his chesty whinging. The result was that we completed our planned day five, all 20.6kms and 2,150ft of climbing.

Here’s the story: we left the hotel at 9.00 after a healthy, bread free breakfast, given we are both breaded out-the Germans eat a fierce amount of it. A quick, steep climb out of the valley was rewarded after an hour or two by the sight of the most beautiful, natural and undisturbed lake of our whole trip, whose name we are keeping to ourselves/have forgotten.

Such a peaceful setting took our breath away, which got Herr Covid all jealous. Compared to day three, where we had bumped up against the tourist hustle and bustle of Mummelsee, this was solitude personified. All day we were surrounded only by birdsong and the sound of water coursing down a myriad mountain streams. Indeed for a while we were following a path labelled ‘the Romantic Weg’. “Flats or heels?” we wondered.

After a stiff 500+ ft climb we arrived at a picnic spot with outstanding views back down to the secret lake. We ate a fine lunch prepared by the good people at our previous night’s hotel.

Then we were off again, across a peaty bog to the ‘summit’ cairn. After that we continued our solitary way gradually making our way downwards again to a beautiful stream that we followed for some miles down the valley.

Like all walks, there was a sting in the tail and we had to negotiate an unwelcome climb over a ridge. Herr Covid got even more grumpy but he had to take his punishment and we made it. During this day of wandering we encountered many signs to our destination Baiersbronn, many offering intriguing variations in distance. Though tempted at one point to shorten the route by taking a tarmac road, we stuck to the longer path and approached our destination through a lovely wood and contoured path above Baiersbronn. The additional climbing really got on Herr Covid’s nerves. The view over the town however, soon shut him up.

We arrived, hot, tired and happy to a greeting from the receptionist akin to a welcome afforded a long lost expedition. And….we got upgraded rooms! We spent the early evening cosseting ourselves in the hotel’s jacuzzi, steam room, sauna and pool, as well as a special jungle shower room complete with simulated weather, of which the Caribbean lightening storm and accompanying birdsong was quite something.

Retired to the same pub as our first night for some hearty German food.

Here’s hoping Herr Covid will keep his head down tonight, he now knows what manner of man he is dealing with.