After the Singh family’s (from Punjab) wonderful five course Indian set meal last night, we awoke and stole out of the hotel for coffee in the local cafe and foraged for the day’s luncheon.

Happily, Herr und Frau Singh had prepared a fulsome Germanic breakfast of meat and bread products, with eggs, fruit and yogurt on the side. We ate heartily because John Rose feared the trauma of a treacherous ascent. He had misunderstood the map.

Rather than retrace our steps of yesterday we took another route, initially steep but soon levelling out to a gentle climb to the ridge we had left yesterday so precipitously. We were treated to wonderful panoramic vistas over the Black Forest, and of course a brief downpour. However, this was a short interlude in the general fair weather walk.

We had lunch overlooking the valley before leaving the trail to head down the valley, off piste, towards our evening family run Gastof Blume hotel. This was a five mile detour, necessitated by the intransigence of the National Park hotel who would not let us stay for one night only. How fortunate for us.

Hotel Gastof Blume proved to be a gem. Set in a quiet valley (excepting the rush of water in the river alongside the hotel) we feasted without restraint on venison, spätzle, dumplings and hot cherries washed down in Rose’s case with a carafe of Rosé. I preferred two large glasses of German Weisbier.

Tomorrow is another day. Today, however, we covered 15 miles, ascended 1,300 feet, and descended 1,500 feet of beautiful Black Forest countryside. It has exceeded all expectations.