Author Archives: d.a.richards@exeter.ac.uk

Les Clés de la Maison

The TGV from Paris Montparnasse to Bordeaux flies along at just shy of 300km an hour, covering the nearly six hundred kilometres in little more than two hours. The landscape, burned brown by the just abated heat wave such that the furrowed fields were rendered indistinguishable from the bleached grass, flashed by. Apart from the speed and the scorched earth outside, the journey seemed oddly familiar – travelling families, backpacks, insufficient luggage space, incomprehensible seat numbering systems – reinforcing a welcome sense of continuity on our journey into the unknown. For this was the moment of truth. This time we were picking up our keys.

Half way between Paris and Bordeaux the landscape changed, as the countryside became more undulating, large swathes of woodland appeared more frequently and the first green ranks of vines appeared. Still, the sun shone down out of an unbroken blue sky and emptied irrigation ponds lined the tracks. Unlike the UK, the great European drought of 2018 still had France in its grip.

However lyrically one tries to observe, record and describe life passing by, the prosaic reality of life soon butts its nose in. Sure enough, crushed between travel bags attempting to eat a French take away lunch proved less than incident free. Having safely navigated a ham and cheese baguette, the strawberry tartelette that followed proved a little more tricky, spilling sticky glaze onto both my travel journal and myself.

Not to be undone, Ann then proceeded to spurt fruit salad juice liberally over the same journal. This brought to mind the infamous occasion when, I having just become the proud owner of a brand new MacBook Air computer laptop [notice the future-proofed writing there?], in the process of opening an individual sachet of train milk, Ann gave my brand spanking new keyboard a liberal milk bath. The lesson I had not learned of course is never to travel with precious things and Ann together. She is an expert in launching food products where they are not normally best appreciated. If you ever invite her round for dinner, avoid asking her to pour the wine.

As the train sped along at an unfeasibly rapid pace, lorries and cars seemed to crawl along the motorway running alongside us, like shiny carriages from a bygone age, polished up for some state carnival. By car, the journey would have taken us a very long day, if not days. Instead, here we were being sped towards our destination in a suitably advanced manner, a metal tube transporting its human cargo, including ourselves, to destinations unknown.

An apposite description so it appeared. We only had vague ideas about the future, our ability to remain in France past B-Day 2019, our proclivity or otherwise for improving our language skills. These were important questions to ponder but first of all something more pressing. Most of all, we didn’t know where to find the keys to our new French life, last seen in the hands of the French estate agent, Jeanette. There had been vague arrangements to meet us the next day, but these had been undone in an email to the effect that Jeanette had decided to take time off and would leave the keys in a bar in the next village.

The phone rang. “Hello, it’s Jeanette. I am not in the village. I cannot leave the keys. What shall I do?”

Existential Refugees

In 2018 I decide to seek refuge away from my native land. To become, in essence, a refugee. I was not fleeing from conflict or for economic advantage, although impending economic disaster was the constant backdrop to my plans. No, I became an existential refugee.

I don’t know if there is a formal existential refugee category, but if not then perhaps that is another example of rejection. I apologise to other types of refugee. I haven’t been tortured, seen my family raped and murdered, nor have I faced starvation or vanishingly faint opportunities for employment. On anyone’s hierarchy of human needs, most of the basic ones are met.

Without wishing in any way to imply moral equivalence to those who flee from persecution and terror, through millennia there has been another factor that has have driven migration, pushing people to uproot themselves, cross borders, arrive in uncharted territory; leave all that is familiar and safe behind.

Equating familiarity with safety is not an entirely self-satisfied first world conceit. The drip, drip, drip of insecurity can build up into a flood of anxiety as the waters rise inexorably, submerging the familiar landmarks that bind a person to their culture or country.

Having spent 20 years evolving a European identity, my country decided that it did not share my sense of who I was. Indeed, the most senior politician in the land of my birth told people of my ilk that we were “citizens of nowhere”. We begged to differ. Suggesting that accident of birth does not bind you to a land, we preferred to be boundaried by political action not happenstance. This did not make me a citizen of nowhere, but it certainly led me to doubt that I could remain a citizen of England.

So we decided to become citizens of somewhere, a somewhere that might grow to love us as we loved it. This is our story, as we race to beat the gathering storms of Brexit – such a hateful and hate filled term – and gain a foothold in a continent that still equates geographical with political definitions, where cooperation is prized and where friendship was seen as the best hope for a collaborative future world.

And that somewhere? That somewhere was France.

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How to be a Guardian reader

Saturday in Wandering Man’s household is Guardian day. Not moral guardian or other examples of the word’s use. No, in Wandering Man’s abode it’s reading the Guardian day, as in the print version of the well known socialist, liberal intelligentsia, rule of law undermining, revolutionary, communist supporting……

OK. Most Saturdays, in the local artfully dishevelled trendy cafe over a bowl of organic, hand knitted yoghurt, Wandering Man opens the Guardian newspaper and get’s his fill of liberal journalism, confirming his bubbled view of the world.

And what a bubble. According to the newspaper’s own market research:

  • 88% of Guardian readers believe it is important that their clothes smell fresh
  • 77% are more likely to say the point of drinking is to get drunk
  • 54% of readers understand enough of another language to read newspapers or listen to radio news

Well I suppose one of of three ain’t bad.

However, very occasionally amongst the articles on where the best Sunday lunch/skinny latte/ethically traded poncho can be found in the Outer Hebrides, there are little nuggets of tantalisation that stop you in your tracks. Whilst there are plentiful adverts aimed at finding  ‘bathing difficulty solutions’, there are also ethically informed instructions on how, where and when to go to places that might be suitable for the average quinoa eating reader.

For example, many years ago, Wandering man and a jolly Liverpudlian fellow from his workplace spent a couple of weeks in a South African township where the locals kept carelessly losing some of their patients. Taking a short weekend break from wandering around the township trying to find them, they set off to do some fishing in a small village along the coast, and stayed in a hotel that had been advertised in a feature in the Guardian Travel pages.

They arrived to find an extremely shabby ‘hostel’ with broken chairs and a collapsing veranda run by a couple of recent arrivals to South Africa from Europe who had clearly duped the Guardian into featuring their whole scheme. From time to time, other sundry Guardian readers who had followed the same advice arrived with the intention of a nice relaxing weekend by the estuary, expecting just enough of a rough edge to satisfy their sense of social justice.

The place was a Liberal elite sucking vortex. No one admitted it and all pretended this was just what they had wanted as they lay down on the mattress strewn floor under flimsy sheets during the freezing nights.

It took a mere 13 years for the memory of following the Guardian’s travel advice to fade before Wandering Man responded once again to the paper’s liberal call to travel arms. As he digested his yoghurt and took a sip of the skinny affogato macchiato in front of him, he turned the page to see a description of the Nepalese ‘Indigenous People’s Trail’. Affectionately known as the ‘Forgotten Trail’ this seemed perfect. If the locals had forgotten where it was then it surely boded well as the next adventure for Wandering Man and Rose. After all, Rose lived in the same sub-continent. It was literally round the corner for him.

A brief email and Rose responded. “Splendid old chap. Let’s go there before everyone else does.” On closer inspection it simply breathed perfection. Few signs, no map, less than 1000 or so visitors since the trail opened, a six hour dawn bus ride from Kathmandu to the trailhead. This was a trip almost certainly specifically designed for the two of us.

What could possibly go wrong?

Rose is on the move

 

Some of them are a order cialis online about order cialis online severe headache, an upset stomach. These natural medication are first of overnight viagra delivery all extremely harmless. This unassuming and tiny pill can work wonders for your sexual satisfaction, which comes at a lower online levitra canada price. The result-oriented, quality medicines and treatments tadalafil cipla have gained them the goodwill and name they have in the market. For those avid (and aged) readers of this blog blessed still with an ability to accurately recall past events, you will remember Rose’s approach to navigation. In order to begin our first wander in the Cathar mountains, Rose took it upon himself to travel via Saudi Arabia, where he spent a productive 12 hours staring at the wall in the airport at Riyadh, then stopped off for a night at Django Reinhardt’s closed nightclub in Paris, before appearing sylph-like out of the teleportation lift in Marmande, southern France.

This time Rose has decided to travel via the UK to Nepal. His curious sense of direction and flawless logic is leading him to arrive in the north of England. Never mind that he lives in India and, as far as most people are concerned, that is usually located next door to Nepal, Rose’s finely honed navigational skills have determined his route. Another portent of success for our forthcoming trek around the Nepalese countryside. A likely confused wander by the terminally baffled awaits us.

I packed my bag and in my bag I packed…..

It’s here! Leaping two by two down the institutional staircase of Wandering Man’s workplace in a blur of excited anticipation I headed off to the Porter’s office where the prospect of a new technical dawn awaited. Here it was at last. Part birthday present, bigger part boy’s toy indulgence, just a few minutes away lay the promise of perfect navigation. The Garmin. It had arrived.

The modern informed traveller is well served by the outdoor pursuits industry in the provision of ‘technical’ kit suited to whatever form of activity he or she could wish to undertake. Most of us would image that ‘technical’ refers to things with moving parts, but these days the word refers to anything that does not resemble a hair shirt. From underpants to overpants, anoraks to ankle socks, basic clothing has been reimagined using the kind of hi-tech metaphors previously reserved for sports cars and computers.

Passing beyond the world of wicking and waterproofing, there are then the truly technical experiences of portable navigation, power and light. A person’s basic hydration needs can be met through gadgets for water filtration and purification, not forgetting eco-soap assisted ablutions. You can choose any number of ingenious ways to boil your carefully filtered and cleaned water in a vast array of utensils, pots and pans. Once all that is over, sleeping presents no impediment to comfort via pages and pages of pads, mats and bags catalogued in a confusing litany of appeals to divest us of our wallet contents.

For Rose and Wandering Man, the key objective in packing was to reduce the weight of our bags, so that they came in as near as possible to the 10kg we had carried two years ago. However, during that previous wander, each evening Rose and I were able to arrive at well appointed hostelries that we had booked some months before. The ability to shower and wash our ‘technical’ clothing meant we could carry a minimal number of outfits. This year the guidebooks we had managed to consult let us know quite clearly that such facilities would be few and far between; as in absent. With a choice between increasing our weight of clothes or becoming riper by the day, we chose the polecat option.

Two sets of lightweight walking outfits later, we surveyed our additional requirements. Clearly, we would need clothes to travel in to Nepal and to wear whilst mooching about in Kathmandu, where we were scheduled to spend a day each side of our walk. Consequently, some non-technical underpants, trousers and shirts made their way into our bags, plus of course a pair of smart brogues for evening wear.

Evenings. Will it be cold? Will it be windy? Where will we be sleeping? Such questions exercised us mightily, particularly the issue of sleep. A sleeping bag liner or a sleeping bag itself? Self-inflating pad or traditional Karrimat? Some online accounts of the wander suggest that bed bugs are likely to be a less than pleasing constant companion in certain environments. So a sleeping bag it was then. Tied tightly at the neck.

The weight began to mount up. And this was before we considered the vexed question of direction. How will we know where to go? I had read a throw away line in that very first Guardian article we read, about a ‘GPS unit’. What precisely did the writer mean by a GPS unit? Being old school, I am never happier than when stooped over a traditional paper map attempting to shield it from the driving Yorkshire rain. A GPS? Why was such a thing necessary?

Of course all boys need their toys. Hence the excitement and anticipation of the special delivery. As is always the case, of course, the reality never attains the expectation of the build up. Unpacking the unfamiliar device, I soon discovered that it needed charging up – a process that took up around the next 18 hours, leaving me ample time to chew my nails and consult a myriad YouTube videos of varying worth. Just what was the difference between a route (pronounced ‘rowt’ apparently), a track, and a trip? Uploads and downloads of TOPO and ‘Birdseye’ maps? It was a totally different language and world – literally. And it weighed a ton.

Much perseverance later, including a few practice walks and the device was starting to open up its secrets. However, a prodigious user of electricity, the device would be of little use without battery back up. Short of carrying a solar panel with us, the only solution seemed to be to purchase yet more tech, this time a pre-chargeable battery pack. One more trip to the online tech store later and this next piece of ‘vital’ equipment arrived. This weighed another ton. Between them, this real tech seemed to weigh more than all the other pretend tech of clothing and anti bed bug sleeping equipment put together; and it had cost only marginally less than the airfare.

With our 10kg limit well and truly consigned to the aspirational dustbin, more stuff went into the rapidly bulging packs. A water purification system, never previously used, dragged from the back of a cupboard. A ‘lightweight’ multi-fuel stove and fuel bottle. A pan for boiling water. Cup and bowl. First (and second) aid kit. Torch. Torch batteries. Protein bars. Bog roll. Wipes. Camera………….

Remember that lot next time you play Dr Foster went to Gloucester.

“We’ve overshot…mistakes do happen”

At least in this instance the overshoot was not in reference to something as catastrophic as an airport runway, but nonetheless these words are not ones you might expect to hear on the train to Heathrow.  The train driver, no doubt distracted by the pleasant scenery en route, forgot to stop at one of the four stations on the journey. Curiously, rather than simply plough on, the driver then screeched to a halt and after some deliberation with the guard, and only after walking alongside the train from one end to the other, proceeded to reverse the train back down the line and into the station.

Of course, this led to a further delay as the train driver kindly stepped aside to allow a slow stopping train to pass by, thereby causing our train to shed its ‘express’ designation and amble along behind the stopper. Now some considerable time later, the train arrived in Reading just as the bus to Heathrow was leaving.

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And then the trek began. Gate 21 finally flashed up on the screen prompting the mad scramble down endless airport corridors to sit down and wait in another lounge apparently some five kilometres from the previous one. A handy tea house at the lounge dispensed conciliatory drinks and snacks. The first of many?

Rose’s Ramblings 1: Get your wriggle on

The trouble with not being able to walk in a straight line for more than ten paces is that it seriously impacts on all aspects of ones behavior. Straight lines are for rulers. Planning properly is for proper planners. Short sentences will be sentenced shortly. Deviation is the norm. You see the problem? Unable to also think straight for more than ten paces has led to, what has seemed to some, many an odd decision.

I pondered this whilst completing my training for the upcoming sojourn with Wandering Man in Nepal. I live but a hop, skip and several hundred bag checks away from Kathmandu where I had once again been cajoled into meeting the Wman of somebody else’s dreams. This time he promised the joys of watching him Cheyne Stoke at elevations over 10 metres. The trailhead is some 3990 metres higher…

 

It was intense this pondering. Interrupted as it was every few paces with deliberations about the prevailing wind, what did it prevail over and how? Is it not just humanistic defeatism? One must face the PV (pondering shorthand) with understanding, compassion and peace before seeking shelter.

 

Anyway, all this musing came from the banks of the River Wharf. In Yorkshire. England. Not the straightest route to Nepal at all I’ll grant you but it was a lovely walk. It was in the wriggly order of things. It was the natural place to be. See you in Kathmandu Wandering Man, probably.

 

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One day whilst sweeping leaves and slapping red ants (who seemed to know much more about the lungi than I did) straight lined coming at me, straight lined going away. The goers touched the comers, the comers came and bit me, red itchy blotches, time for a quick impression of Stan Laurel as my broom, which had being an instrument of sweeping, transformed itself into an organic non chemical, non toxic ant dissuader. I now wriggled like a baby with an itch but began to feel more in control as the red ant army retreated under the might of the combined wriggle and aforementioned ant dissuader, with which I once had a negligent dissuade harming a beautiful butterfly in the process. The ants came in order, left in chaos and in the middle was a wriggle. I felt at One. And checked again at 2.30.

 

My battle won I realized I had stumbled upon a realization. I put it back. Training courses in the art of ant dissuasion and fitness courses to compliment it featuring my patented ‘Natural Order Wriggle’ are now available. Now combine the 2 for lovely low price and never worry about being covered in South East Asian red ants ever again.

 

T&C apply.

The Great Indigenous People’s Tale 0500 – 1100hrs ‘In the Mudhe’

We’re here” our taxi driver cried to our surprise. Looking around, we feared for our demise as only shutters and a barricade were visible to our eyes. In darkened street we would meet our maker before our feet had us forsaken. “Save our souls” I cried “let’s be chaps and wrestle them for our rucksacks” Just then, without much ado the shutters rose, there in the blue-black night a hotel concierge, a shining light.

You could have taken them,” I whispered to The Wandering Man for yes, avid bleader (someone who follows a blog), ‘tis time for the Great Indigenous Peoples Tale (artistic license applied for) featuring a host of your soon to be favourite characters. Meet and greet:

  • A Buffalo, the aptly name Buff XXX111 (“recurring”)
  • Goats
  • Architectural Llamas
  • Bhutan Carpenters
  • Another Buffalo, the aptly named Buffalo XXX111 (“to infinity”),
  • More Goats
  • The Women who Cross the Bridge for Money
  • The Stick-Gifter
  • Buff the Very First (“so there”)

Spend time with the ‘People who Wish You Well’ and other fully rounded out characters. Oh, and Big Bang Buff (“nuff said”) also makes a cameo appearance as ‘Buffalo Ploughing,’ in the style of the great 13th C. Tamangian artist, Ted.

All this and made up things too.

We got our bags out of the boot and readied ourselves for our late night hotel check in. I dismissed thoughts about future events and narrowed in on the moment.

In the gloom of the evening by the light of the silvery moon I could see the tension on the Wandering Man’s famed fizzog accompanied, as ever, by the fiercely protective full set that, when set against the natural environs, more than held its own and usually somebody else’s as well (see figure 1). I relieved the tension by serenading him with a Beatles’ medley. Visibly relaxed, I flaunted my Barry Manilow. The lights went out.

Figure 1 Famous fizzog & full set in natural environs

  • The following paragraph is for lovers of poor double entendre or those of a military persuasion. Whether you remain with the paragraph or leave please do so in light of the fullest disclosure of facts and not just because of your opinion of the author. It will not impact on remaining paragraphs or will it? Leavers go straight to Paragraph 3.

It’s 0530 hrs. The first reminder had been issued via personal voicemail, in person. “Are you up Rose”’ a saying that when used in earlier times had a variety of connotations. Resisting the urge to shout “Roger that!” in affirmation I managed a strangled “I’m coming” which, on later review, was not much better.

However, such a carry on aside, we’re in the lobby of the Eco Hotel with pack up breakfast provided of boiled egg, cheese sandwich, one apple and a carton of juice. We needed to be at the Ratna Park bus stop by 06.00hrs. The man who was about to drive us seven minutes down the road and charge us 500 Nepalese Rupees for the privilege was already waiting for us. The fee however included: knowing where he was going, getting there, arranging for the right person to get us on the right bus and not driving off with our bags. He earned his money.

The first stirrings of human existence seemed to be occurring around the dilapidated bus station. Bleary-eyed commuters boarded buses and then got off again in order to board the right bus. Sellers of assorted goods got on and off without making a sale, lips pursed in mild frustration as they looked for the next opportunity. The air was quickly turning industrial as engines fired up.

We had taken seats towards the rear of the bus. A gentleman and his companion arrived waiving tickets whilst saying the word “ticket” repeatedly. We confirmed we did not have one and enquired as to whether it was necessary. The answer was more waiving of tickets with an increasing frequency of the word ‘ticket’. A helpful chap explained that we were sitting in their seats. The seats they’d brought a ticket for. So we moved behind onto the seats above the wheels.

Now I like a fairground ride as much as the next person and very excitable I can be in a bumper car. However 4.5 hours in a vehicle that once had suspension, on roads whose very existence challenged the definition of the word ‘road’, had only succeeded in turning smiles into grimaces. Still it was fun watching Wandering Man change colour, the fetching shade of puce that arrived as the rear wheel left the road dangling over the edge of a severe drop, was particularly fetching. That’ll teach him to sit by the window.

No words needed to be exchanged between us when the vehicle stopped to confirm it had one wheel dangling. Nor when it pulled in and a man with a spanner disappeared under the vehicle right where we were sitting. Nor at the constant need to blow air into the tyres and certainly not as all the passengers bounced up, down and side to side, some sleeping whilst their hats did the movements. It was the public transport equivalent of the Hadron Collider. We rubbed our heads in awe. I discovered what I thought was a black hole. WMan spat on his hanky and rubbed hard.

On occasion, when not too dazed, we caught sight of the Sun Koshi River. We saw white-capped mountains, terraced valleys, plenty of temples. It was exciting. We needed to walk. Alighting in Mudhe, we were now on our own.

Except, there were two of us.

It was time for tea.

General Information on walking the IP Trail in Nepal Part 1

In contrast to the light hearted tenor of most Wandering Man posts, this one is designed to help you learn from our mistakes and successes walking the ‘IP’ Trail. We want more people to go there, to visit this incredible landscape and meet the wonderful and warm people who live there. We want you to SPEND YOUR MONEY by giving it direct to those that will benefit most from it, rather than route it via commercial tour companies in western countries, or Nepal itself for that matter. Get your tourist dollar to do the most good it can by spending it directly on food, accommodation and tea from the people who live on the route. It will be a very small amount to you but a massive boost to individual and family incomes for some very economically disadvantaged people indeed.

The Route

The IP Trail was set up by the Nepalese government with help from the UN some ten or so years ago. There is a map and a guidebook. The guidebook’s author, whom we affectionately referred to as Alonzo (it’s his name after all – full name Alonzo Lucious Lyons), is a wonderful advocate for off the beaten tracks in Nepal. His various websites and books are assertive in demanding readers avoid the crowded usual suspect treks around the high mountains and instead head for Nepal’s middle hills between the big peaks and the southern plains. In this we agree.

However, like many similar guidebooks, daily sections are written as ‘hours of walking’. Now Wandering Man is a scientist and is automatically averse to averages being presented as definitive numbers. As we say in science, “what is the variance around the mean?” In plain language, this refers to the obvious fact that the time taken by a fit, well prepared and highly experienced walker of Alonzo’s stature cannot be compared to the likely time required by two late 50’s, slightly overweight and overburdened chaps that were Wandering Man and Rose. Why do guidebooks talk in time? What’s wrong with distance? Most walkers will have been for a stroll around their local hills before and will have a pretty good idea of how fast they can walk. GIVE US THE DISTANCES ALONZO! We can work it out for ourselves.

Having said this, we two did keep reasonably close most days to Alonzo’s timings. We say reasonably close, because as he accurately states in his book, his timings do not include stops. Given you will be walking through some of the most spectacular scenery on earth, will be meeting many, many lovely people, will want to take a zillion photographs, will want to drink tea at the many tea houses and tiny shops on the route, WHAT IS THE POINT OF NOT STOPPING ALONZO? You’d be mad to charge on, head down and ignore the environmental and human experiences around you. Plus of course you might need time for the odd collapse on the ground to rest those wobbly pins.

There is one section of the route where we did severely part company with Alonzo’s estimates. On the final day there is a 5,000 feet descent from Sunapati Peak to the Sun Kosi river. Alonzo breezily suggests you can do that in under 3 hours. Be warned, we took six hours. The only other trekkers we met on the trail also took six hours. And they were in their late 20s and early 30s. How anyone could possibly descend such a height in the time suggested by Alonzo is impossible to conceive. I imagine he took a para glider.
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The guidebook, whilst giving a reasonable overview of day walk plans is frustratingly idiosyncratic. Sometimes Alonzo tells you about available accommodation, sometimes he doesn’t. Sometimes he gives you very specific instructions about turn offs and local paths, at other times he is maddeningly vague about the route. Mostly, he wants you to know about really interesting things like the fact that a UN helicopter crashed nearby one part of the trail and everyone was killed in it. Not good for the occupants nor particularly trekkers on the trail.

The specific IP Trail map is frankly not much better. It is very small scale. Navigation skills are actually, therefore, very important. You need to know in which direction you are heading so a compass is vital. There is no doubt local people will help you out. In fact they will point you onto paths unknown to Alonzo which will both challenge you and cut off corners. As a consequence, we trod some paths we were pretty sure had never seen the white person’s walking boot before. However, our most useful piece of kit was a Garmin hand held GPS navigation aid (other makes are available). It is extra weight (more on this later) but indispensably told us where we were and we used it on several occasions to correct our route mistakes before they had become too serious. The downloadable maps available for this region of Nepal are reasonable, even if they do not list all the village names referred to by Alonzo. At high resolution, they certainly show a lot of available paths and forest roads.

So hear is our distilled advice. You cannot rely on one navigation aid alone. Buy the book, the paper map, the GPS unit and the downloadable Nepal map. Sit at home and use the book and the paper map to plot a daily route on the downloadable map and upload it to your hand held device. Go to Nepal, walk the trail, consult book, map and GPS regularly. Ask local people.

And finally, hand held navigation units use electricity. On the trail you will have infrequent recourse to plugs and power to recharge it. It is extra weight, but buy a powerpack/powerbank that is big enough for recharging your unit several times. If you are worried about pack weight, throw something else out. A GPS unit and power pack are THE indispensable items for your trek.